Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar From: templon@paramount.nikhefk.nikhef.nl (Jeffrey Templon) Subject: Fender StratoFAQ Posting - about Stratocasters Message-ID: <1993Jan28.161956.29636@paramount.nikhefk.nikhef.nl> Keywords: fender stratocaster guitar faq Organization: NIKHEFK Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 16:19:56 GMT Lines: 542 This is the Fender Stratocaster "FAQ" posting with answers. New sections have been added about the woods used in making Fenders, about tremolo setups, and a BIG section about how to date your Strat (i.e. find out its age - Fender is still working on the Laura Dern Model so the other dating option is still a little uncomfortable ...). Thanks to Christian and Pasi for putting this date-a-Strat section together!! As always, all contributions and comments and corrections and free beer, etc. are welcome. Have fun and jam out!! JT for the StratoFAQ crew [ps - I read somewhere that the US Vintage series have ASH bodies which seems to be different than in the Frontline (which is where we got our info). Anybody have a definitive answer on this??] ------------------------------------------------------------ This StratoFAQ was composed by Jeff Templon (templon@paramount.nikhefk.nikhef.nl) and Don Tillman (till@lucid.com). We used the Fender _Frontline_ Catalog, as well as information gleaned from magazines and our vast experience. Other net people have contributed pieces, and their names are displayed alongside their contributions. We welcome any corrections or additions. Stratocasters This FAQ explains about the different models of Fender Stratocasters, why they exist, what the difference is between them. Last check showed forty different models (that's forty models with the name "Strat" in them, with separate model numbers, not counting colors), and they do not always look very different at first glance, so be careful. Above all, let your fingers (or maybe those of a trusted player-friend if you are a beginner) be your guide! We're going to be splitting them up by country of origin, not because we really care about where they were built, but because Strats from different countries use different materials and are of different designs. Also we're not going to list prices; these are already available on the internet. Finally: if you want EVEN MORE information, there is a sort of "definitive book" on Stratocasters. It is called "The Fender Stratocaster" by A.R. Duchossoir, paperback, 48 pages, $9.95 (ISBN 0-88188-880-X). Disclaimer: We come down hard on the "Hot Modern" sort of Stratocasters, since they aren't really true to the original Stratocaster concept. Your mileage may vary. As always, you should listen to your fingers first (if YOU like 'em, then buy 'em!) Actually, one of us [-jt] sort of objects to the Plus and Ultra models too. U.S. Stratocasters ------------------ U.S. Stratocasters are intended to be the deluxe, "proper" Stratocasters. The bodies are made of Alder just like the originals. Top quality hardware throughout. U.S. Vintage 1957 Stratocaster Maple fingerboard, single layer pickguard U.S. Vintage 1962 Stratocaster Rosewood fingerboard, triple layer pickguard Both models: Alder Body, Nitrocellulose lacquer finish; "medium" neck, 21 small frets, 7.25" radius; pickups have lacquer-coated windings, staggered polepieces and cloth-wrapped wire; 3-position pickup switch (with kit for 5-position operation); nickel plated hardware, vintage tremolo unit and tuners. These models are intended to be pretty close to exact replicas of the '57 and '62 models. I have played a '62 reissue and found it to be really nice [-jt]. nathan@laplace.biology.yale.edu tells us that the above statement about the neck (from the Fender catalogue) is misleading; the necks are actually quite different from each other. [USA] American Standard Stratocaster [Rosewood fingerboard] [USA] American Standard Stratocaster [Maple fingerboard] [USA] American Standard Stratocaster [Lefty, Rosewood fingerboard] [USA] American Standard Stratocaster [Lefty, Maple fingerboard] Block style saddles, satin finish neck, TBX tone control, satin finish necks, 9.5-inch neck radius, Fender-Schaller tuners. I have one of these and like it a lot [-dt]. I have one too, and ditto [-jt]. U.S. Strat Plus [maple fingerboard] U.S. Strat Plus [rosewood fingerboard] The Plus's have Lace pickups, Wilkinson nut and heads, hipshot tremsetter. U.S. Deluxe Strat Plus [maple fingerboard] U.S. Deluxe Strat Plus [rosewood fingerboard] The Deluxe Plus's additionally have Ash body laminates top and back, multicolor Lace pickups. U.S. Strat Ultra The Ultra additionally has an Ebony fingerboard, figured maple body laminates top and back, bridge pickup is a pair to emulate a humbucker sound. [USA] Set Neck Stratocaster [USA] Set Neck Floyd Rose Stratocaster Mahogany body with figured maple top and back laminates, ebony fingerboard. [USA] Floyd Rose Classic Stratocaster [maple fingerboard] [USA] Floyd Rose Classic Stratocaster [rosewood fingerboard] Trendy heavy metal abominations. [USA] H.M. Strat Ultra Basswood, trendy heavy metal abomination. [USA] Eric Clapton Strat [USA] Malmsteen Strat [maple fingerboard] [USA] Malmsteen Strat [rosewood fingerboard] [USA] Stevie Ray Vaughan Strat [USA] Robert Cray Strat (no tremolo) [USA] Buddy Guy Strat Signature series. Intended to be like the ones played by the artists who have their name written on them, but it sounds like this is usually not the case. Japanese/Mexican Stratocasters ------------------------------ The Japanese and Mexican Stratocasters are intended to be the best value for the money. It seems that the Japanese instruments are made with Basswood bodies and the Mexican ones are made of Poplar. I don't know much about Basswood, but it appears to be much lighter and less resonant that Ash or Alder. It's also used by most of the other Japanese manufacturers (Ibanez, Yamaha, Charvel, etc.) [see more wood info in the Q&A section.] It could be argued that Basswood or Poplar are inappropriate woods for Stratocaster bodies, making the instrument not a heck of a lot different from, say, an Ibanez Roadstar. But certainly the use of Basswood is completely incorrect for an instrument that claims to be a "Reissue" model. Questions: Are the Japanese and Mexican factories actually owned by Fender or are the instruments built by other companies? I don't know [-dt]. I don't know either [-jt]. It probably doesn't matter too much, but do these factories also manufacture other brands of guitars? [Japan] Reissue 50's Stratocaster v-shaped maple neck, single-layer pickguard, [Japan] Reissue 50's Hardtail Stratocaster as above but without wang bar. [Japan] Reissue 60's Stratocaster u-shaped neck with rosewood-slab fretboard, triple-layer pickguard These "reissue" models are intended to be "good deal" reproductions of old-model Stratocasters. [Japan/Mexico] Standard Stratocaster [Rosewood fingerboard] [Japan/Mexico] Standard Stratocaster [Maple fingerboard] [Japan] Standard Stratocaster [Left handed] These are the ones you typically see on sale. I have heard that the Standards are no longer made at all in Japan [-jt]. The Mexican Standards that I have played seem to be very nice guitars, especially for the money [-jt]. I have had professional player friends tell me the same thing. [Japan] HRR '50's Stratocaster [maple fingerboard] [Japan] HRR '50's Stratocaster [rosewood fingerboard] Trendy heavy metal abominations. [Japan] H.M. Strat [maple fingerboard, 1 humbucker, 2 single coils] [Japan] H.M. Strat [rosewood fingerboard, 1 humbucker, 2 single coils] [Japan] H.M. Strat [maple fingerboard, 2 humbuckers, 1 single coil] [Japan] H.M. Strat [rosewood fingerboard, 2 humbucker, 1 single coil] More trendy heavy metal abominations. 17" neck radius. [Japan] Malmsteen-san Standard Squier, Squier II Stratocasters ------------------------------- Very inexpensive Korean instruments made with cheap plywood bodies and cheap hardware. They can be had new for around $180. There are some people (a "cult following"?) who prefer these guitars to the Fender models, once the pickups have been replaced. I have no idea what the difference is between the Squier and Squier II. [-dt, jt] The Squier name comes from a manufacturer of strings that CBS bought in the late 60's. Fender uses it for their cheap instruments, so as to cash in on the low end of the market, but keeping the business somewhat separate from their main market. (The phrase "Plausible Deniability" comes to mind.) Questions: Is the Korean factory owned by Fender? Does this factory also manufacture other brands of guitars? Toasters? Motorcycles? [Korea] Squier Standard Stratocaster [maple neck] [Korea] Squier Standard Stratocaster [rosewood neck] [Korea] Squier II Standard Stratocaster [Korea] Squier II Standard Stratocaster [trendy pickup option] 12-inch neck radius. Some Commonly-Asked Questions About Stratocasters: -------------------------------------------------- Q: How can I tell if they are "American" Stratocasters? A: Look on the headstock, underneath the Fender logo. It will state in which country it was made. You can also tell by the first few digits of the serial number. As of a few years ago, "E" meant made in the USA [is this still true? -- jt] Q: What is the difference between a rosewood neck and a maple neck? A: Actually, both versions have a maple neck; the rosewood fretboard is added on top of the maple piece. There are two important differences: first the maple is usually smoother and harder due to the fact that there's a finish over it while the rosewood fingerboard is bare, so there is a different feel when you play the guitar. Secondly, the woods have different physical properties, so the way they carry the vibrations is different, which gives the guitar a different sound. Most people say the maple-neck models sound "brighter" and the rosewood-models "smokier". Q: Why the difference in the neck radii? A: Leo originally designed the curved neck to be easier to chord, while more recently a less radical curve is in demand to allow more extreme string bending without "fretting out". The original and reissue models have a 7.5-inch radius while the HM models have a 17-inch radius. Q: What's a TBX tone control? A: Fender claims that the TBX tone control is an advanced design tone control that can not only roll off the highs, but boost them as well. Specifically between full counter clockwise and the center detent it acts like a normal tone control and between the center detent and full clockwise it boosts the highs. Actually at full clockwise it's effectively out of the circuit, as you turn it toward center it shunts the pickup with an 82K ohm resistor, and from center down to full counterclockwise it shunts the pickup with a capacitor like a standard tone control. So it doesn't boost the highs at all. I don't like the TBX myself; being a double ganged control it's more difficult to spin with your pinky, and the interesting part of the adjustment range is all cramped between 2 and 3 or so. Next time I open up my Strat I'll probably replace the TBX with a normal tone control. [-dt] Q: What's the out-of-phase position? A: A misnomer, the pickups aren't really out of phase. The original Stratocaster had a 3-position pickup switch that would choose only one pickup on at a time and folks eventually discovered that they could get two additional neat sounds by rocking the switch in between positions 1 and 2 and between positions 2 and 3. (This is because Leo correctly chose a make-before-break switch.) Soon 5-position switches were readily available in the parts market, and soon after that Stratocaster came equipped with 5-position switches as standard equipment. These two addition positions soon became known as out-of-phase positions because the nasal sound of two pickups on in phase and physically located a couple inches from each other is superficially similiar to the sound of the neck and bridge pickups on a two pickup instrument on out-of-phase. And the name has stuck. [-dt] Q: What's the deal with the middle pickup? A: The middle pickup on current model Stratocasters (with standard pickups) has its magnets mounted oppositely to the other two (north pole up vs. south pole up), inverting the polarity of the signal, and is wired with its electical connections swapped, inverting the polarity back again. Doesn't sound too useful at first, but when the middle pickup is on at the same time one of the other pickups is on (positions two and four on the selector switch), hum and noise from external sources will cancel. This is the humbucking principle. Most guitars with two single coil pickups also do this (ie., the Telecaster, Jaguar, Jazz Bass, etc.). [-dt] Q: What's a Lace Sensor Pickup? A: Fender claims that the Lace Sensor pickup "is not a pickup at all, but an Audio Emission Sensor (AES)". Pure marketing drivel. Insulting too; AES actually stands for the Audio Engineering Society, a professional organization. Anyway, it's a standard single coil pickup that, because of its design, is less sensitive to hum and noise than typical single coil pickups. It sounds similiar, but not exactly like, standard Fender single coil pickups. They're available in four models (Gold, Silver, Blue, Red) with different amounts of high end rolloff. The Lace Sensors only come in one magnetic polarity, so the middle pickup hack mentioned above doesn't apply. [-dt] Q: What's the deal with the tone controls? A: The original Stratocaster and current reissue model have the first tone control connected to the neck pickup (and thus in effect only when the neck pickup is selected), the second tone control connected to the middle pickups (and in effect only when the middle pickup is selected), and the bridge pickup without a tone control. Modern Stratocasters have the second tone control in effect for both the middle and bridge pickups. [-dt] Q: Isn't the phrase "Current Reissue Model" a triple oxymoron? A: Yes indeed, these are very rare. Q: Does the wood used in the guitar matter? Which wood is used? A: [courtesy Christian Sebeke ] Woods that have been used to make Stratocasters include ash, alder, poplar, and basswood. The alder-bodied guitars are the "normal" stratocasters, ash having been used in some early models and poplar or basswood in some of the Japanese/Mexican/Korean versions. [note - any more information from wood experts is welcome] In the opinion of some luthiers, poplar is close to basswood. The basic sound of a guitar made from Alder is warm with a good amount of presence without being too extreme in the top. The Poplar is not as popular as the name might suggest. The sound is not characteristic, but a bit more bright than basswood. Poplar is quite soft. Q: What is the difference between changing string gauges, tightening the trem screws (accessible on a Strat from behind the guitar), or adding more springs (also accessible from behind) in trying to set up your Strat's tremolo system? A: I'll not write up the physics details, but ... in this situation, the difference between adjusting the number of springs vs. adjusting the screws is that the fewer springs you have, the "spongier" your trem action will be. That is, it will take less force for you to change the pitch of the strings by a given amount. This goes for both ways, either raising or lowering the pitch! It is easy to see why this works with lowering the pitch (then you pull against the spring), but I was surprised about getting the same answer when raising the pitch. A related effect is that if you choose the few-spring option, then your guitar will be more apt to go out of tune when you bend notes. I don't mean "lose tune" so that you must retune, I mean that if you play one open note and bend another at the same time, the open note will go out of tune because you've moved the bridge by increasing string tension with your bend. The effect of the string gauge is to increase the string tension; thus if you have your trem setup and you put on heavier strings, you'll either have to tighten the trem screws or add more springs to keep your same trem setup position. A final note: the number of springs may affect your guitar's tone! You are changing the way that the string vibrations are transmitted to the wood of the body when you add or remove springs. A professional player told me [jt] once that's why he doesn't use a non-tremolo strat, even though he hardly ever touches the tremolo bar ... "you've got this hollowed-out area in the wood with all this metal in it ... that's why a Stratocaster sounds like it does." Q: How do I tell when my possibly valuable Stratocaster was made? A: The below part of the FAQ has been contributed by Christian Sebeke and Pasi Korhonen, and answers ALOT of these questions. Version 2.3.2 , 27.01.93, 9.00 FAQ: Please date my Strat. Introduction Stratocasters were built since 1953 and it is quite difficult to exactly recover the birthday of your guitar. The manufacturing dates of the parts for the Stratocaster and the final assembly may differ significantly. Necks are usually stamped with their manufacturing date on the end that fits into the body and faces towards the pickups. Bodies were also stamped, but the digits are usually hidden under the pickguard and covered with paint. For a first idea we would call it convenient to hang on to the serial numbering scheme to determine the manufacturing year of a Strat although it is easy to exchange neck plates. You will have to disassemble the axe to find the definitive (neck) age. If you want to know a bit more, there is a book that deals with nearly all details on Strats, it's called "The Fender Stratocaster" by A.R. Duchossoir (see reference above.) One could also recommend Tony Bacon and Paul Days book: "The Fender Book", A complete History of Fender Electric Guitars, Balafon, London 1992 (We don't have it yet, so no comment). If you really want to dig vintage guitars of any kind, try George Gruhn and Walter Carter: "Gruhn's guide to Vintage Guitars", GPI Books, SF, 1991. Not so many pictures, but more numbering information. Also "American Guitars" by Tom Wheeler is a good book for the guitar lover. He has several sections and tons of pictures on all American guitar manufacturers along with some information on dating Fenders and Gibsons. ISBN 0-06-273154-8 paperback, revised and updated edition, Harper Perennial, NY 1992 The authors [cs,pk] think that it is a pity that old Strats are getting sold to people who don't use them to enrich the world of music, but to enrich themselves. There may be talents that would have grown to a better playing using an old but well crafted reasonably priced guitar. So be aware of your instrument's value and think twice before giving it away to someone who does not know how to play it. We don't include prices here, but if you buy or sell a guitar be aware of the following facts: Every modification lowers the price, also refinishing. Special models and original custom colors may raise it significantly. Note ALWAYS USE THIS WITH A GRAIN OF SALT!!! THERE MAY BE INCONSISTENCIES. IF YOU DATED YOUR STRAT PLEASE SEND A NOTE TO THE AUTHORS ALONG WITH AS MUCH INFORMATION ON YOUR GUITAR AS POSSIBLE, ESPECIALLY REGARDING THE SUBJECTS MENTIONED BELOW. WE WILL COLLECT THEM AND MERGE THEM TO THE COMING VERSIONS OF THE FAQ. pkor@phoenix.oulu.fi cs@frodo.lfi.uni-hannover.de Questionnaire (We would appreciate at least the first three items): * Serial-Number * Neck-Date * Patent Number(s) like 61,62,...,76 Color (refinished?) Neck (rosewood/maple) Micro-Tilt (y/n) Staggered PU's (y/n) Scratchplate (alu/plastic/laminated) Scratchplate Color Headstock/Logo Serial Numbers To give you an idea of the age take the following table of serial numbers. It shows the range of numbers and the respective time when they were used. Note that the periods overlap significantly sometimes. Credits should be given to Jim Werner, a collector from Iowa, who collected a neck date/serial number table from more than 800 Fender instruments. His table is reprinted in the Duchossoir. Our table is a compilation of the Werner list and Duchossoir info, which comes from Fender for later (70s) periods. Period Series Comment ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1953-1954 2 or 3 digits maybe prototypes until start in 1954 1953-1956 4 digits through 1111 mainly 1954 1955-1957 4 digits starting with 7 or 8 1954-1957 08999 ... 14514 mainly 1956 1957 15054 ... 22647 1958 28250 ... 30747 1959 30892 ... 43125 1959-1960 44606 ... 48490 1960-1962 55045 ... 71331 mainly 1961 1961-1964 76281 ... 90745 mainly 1962 1961-1963 91954 ... 98691 mainly 1963 1963-1964 L 00186 ... L 33650 few 1962 1964-1965 L 34983 ... L 99809 1965-1966 100 173 ... 124 061 mainly 1965 1964-1969 125 115 ... 195 270 mainly 1966 1966-1969 195 663 ... 215 825 mainly 1967 1966-1968 217 602 ... 240 407 mainly 1968 1966-1972 250 025 ... 293 692 exceptions through late 1970s 1968-1972 303 802 ... 375 967 mainly 1972 1979-1980 25 + 4 digits Anniversary Strat apr 73 - sep 76 4 + 5 digits sep 73 - sep 76 5 + 5 digits aug 74 - aug 76 6 + 5 digits sep 76 - dec 76 7 + 5 digits aug 76 - apr 77 76 + 5 digits on headstock mar 77 - aug 78 S6 + 5 digits on headstock jan 77 - apr 78 S7 + 5 digits on headstock dec 77 - dec 78 S8 + 5 digits on headstock nov 78 - aug 81 S9 + 5 digits on headstock jun 79 - jan 81 E0 + 5 digits on headstock dec 80 - jan 82 E1 + 5 digits on headstock dec 81 - jan 83 E2 + 5 digits on headstock dec 82 - jan 85 E3 + 5 digits on headstock dec 83 - early 88 E4 + 5 digits on headstock Patent Numbers Another source of information in the range from 1961-1976 are the patent numbers. Those numbers are fixed numbers (i.e. the same number on EVERY Strat made during a certain period) and written on the headstock until 1976, when the serial number moved there from the neck plate. 1961 2 numbers PAT 2,573,254 2,741,146 1962 3rd added in spring 2,960,900 1963 same 3 numbers 1964 4th added mid-'64 with transition logo 3,143,028 1965 5th added mid-'65 2,817,261 1966 after Jan '66 only 3 numbers PAT 2,741,146 3,143,028 DES 169,062 1967 same 3 numbers 1968 after mid-'68 2 numbers PAT 2,741,146 3,143,028 1969 same 2 numbers 1970 about mid-'70 one number 2,741,146 1971 same number 1972 about mid-'72 one number 3,143,028 1976 last time with PAT number, first time with serial# in the headstock Misc. - The 5 - digit serial numbers were preceded by a dash from late 1956 to early 1958 and between late 1957 and late 1958 some neck plates were double stamped, 6 digits outside and 5 digits with dash (different number) on the underside. - First scratchplates were anodized aluminum, then white plastic. Laminated scratchplate from 1959 on. - Early Strats show a "spaghetti"-logo (thin, quite simple letters). From July '64 it changed to a more modern looking gold "transition" logo and mid '68 until '77 they had the black "CBS"-logo. Then it got the gold outline, and mid-1983 the smaller silver logo appeared. - Three color sunburst was used from mid-'58. - Large F on the plate since CBS-takeover in Jan. '65, until late '76. - Wider headstock generally from December '65. The new small headstock appeared in fall '81. In addition to these, a medium size headstock was used on special models (The Strat, Walnut Strat and Gold Stratocaster) in early 80's. - 3 bolt Micro Tilt adjustment from fall '71 to Anniversary '79, std. Strats till fall '81. - Staggered Pickups appeared in 1954 and vanished in late 1974. Reappeared late '81 along with the smaller headstock, when Dan Smith took over the design front (Smith Strat). Remember to send your dates to the authors. Thanks for using this dating sceme. [end of the Date-A-Strat section!!]